It was a hot day, and a big climb, but we were promised
glistening pools of water, fed by sparkling waterfalls that tumbled into fern
lined canyons. It would be worth it, the guides said, the most beautiful place
on the whole river, just make sure you take plenty of water to drink.
I took it slow, brining up the rear with the guide assigned
to follow the stragglers (which was me, it was always me). She was nice though.
Kira was her name, she couldn’t have been more than 25, tall and lanky like an
elk, with feet like a mountain goat, it was as if she had been raised scaling
these red rocks in the desert heat. And yet here she was, poking slowly up with
me, pulling my ass up the trickier parts, and all the while making pleasant
small talk. It was what made a good wilderness guide, I supposed.
I tried not to feel badly about slowing the group down as we
summited yet another ledge. I stood there for a moment, hiding in a sliver of
shade provided by the outcropping of the next rock shelf hanging above us.
“Only a few more left before we enter the slot canyon,” Kira
said chirpily
I unscrewed the cap from my Nalgene and took a swig of my desert
warmed water.
“Okay,” I replied, “let’s do this.”
Sure enough, after a few more scrambles up what felt like
sheer rock faces, we turned the corner into a mercifully shaded canyon. The
space was narrow, with just enough room for a trail that was perched over a creek flowing down the
slot far below. I walked slowly on, conscious of the consequences of a missed
step, though I was also savoring the relative cool of the canyon.
“Hey Jenny!” Kira bubbled up behind me.
“Yeah?” I replied, turning carefully to face her.
“Check out the wall of the canyon on the other side of the
creek.”
I looked over, to the sheer red wall of rock across the dizzying
depths of the niche carved by the bubbling creek far below us. I studied the
wall, but couldn’t figure out what I was missing. Was this another geology
lesson? Did she want me to appreciate the difference in the layers of rock
(that frankly all looked the same to me, but apparently were slowly built up
over eons).
“The hands,” she said, apparently picking up on my
confusion, “do you see them?”
And then I did, outlines of hands, hundreds of them,
decorated the wall.
“But how?” I replied.
“The Anasazi Indians. We think it was some kind of ritual,
or perhaps just showing off for their friends, they would leap over the slot, their
hands covered in paint, and leave the prints before bouncing off the wall
safely back to the trail.”
“Well fuck that shit,” I replied. And we both stood there in
silence, marveling about the people who were here before us, and this canyon
they called home.
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